[meteorite-list] List of known Rusters?

[Jonathan E. Dongell]

Hi Ed,
The wax idea sounds good.
Keeps the water out, but still "breathes" (lets oxygen in and out).
Have you thought about microcrystalline wax, instead of clear paste floor 
wax?
Try a company like 'Clarus Specialty Products' or 'Caromex International'.
Ask for a microcrystalline wax that melts easy at, or below, 175 C ( ~ 350 
F)
and that has a good penetration grade. As it cools to ~ 100 C (200 F)
take it out, and rag it off.... You are good to go...
If you have excess in some wax in certain tough areas, you can just torch it 
out
or simply re-bake it. Try it on something small.... Let me know what you 
think...
In the "Great White North", you might try WITCO Canada (814-368-6111)
You might try their "Witco 180 M Microwax"... Or, see what they recommend ": 
^ /
Good Luck....
Jonathan



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed Majden" <epmajden at shaw.ca>
To: "Jonathan E. Dongell" <jdongell at cox.net>
Cc: <meteorite-list at meteoritecentral.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 08, 2010 9:33 AM
Subject: Re: [meteorite-list] List of known Rusters?


> Hi Jonathan:
> I did a search for D96 Gun Oil on the internet.  I contacted the  supplier 
> of this product and he says they will not ship small amounts  to Canada.
> He referred me to some Canadian Dealers but they did not reply to my e- 
> mails.  Perhaps they don't stock the stuff anymore.  Shipping stuff  like 
> this across
> the border can be problematic and also costly.  I phoned a gun  collector 
> friend of mine and he says they don't use gun oil anymore,  just cloth 
> impregnated
> wipes.  He says in our cold climate when hunting seasons are open gun 
> oils tend to gum things up.  He suggested using clear paste wax, auto  or 
> floor types.
> I wonder if anyone has tried this?  This may be worth a try!
> Cheers:
> Ed
>
> From very "WET" Vancouver Island!
>
> On 7-Dec-10, at 10:59 PM, Jonathan E. Dongell wrote:
>
>> Ed,
>> I will sometimes use WD40 on previously treated/preserved irons, as  a 
>> twice-a-year
>> cleaner/sealer as a "rub-down" with a clean towel. But, I always  heat my 
>> specimens
>> to ~ 400 F for ~ 20 minutes, prior to every application (let them  cool 
>> first... ouch...).
>> I have noticed two things when using WD40 on my specimens:
>> 1. it appears to be, at best, only a temporary rust retardant.
>> 2. it does not behave as a 100% water-repellant oil-based product  does; 
>> in fact,
>> it can (in my opinion) emulsify with water/moisture in the specimen,  due 
>> to the aliphatic
>> component and/or the wetting agent used in WD40.
>>
>> The later # 2, is why I always insist on heating specimens that  receive 
>> WD40. You must
>> remove any moisture from within your specimen, or you will risk 
>> continued degradation
>> of your specimen BENEATH THE SURFACE over time (in my opinion).
>>
>> The only other reason I might use WD40 is a personal preference. It 
>> gives certain irons
>> a slightly darker, almost black-iron oxide or 'fusion-crust' tone or 
>> coloration (instead of
>> a shiny, or a gun metal blue, or etc...) with continued usage.  However, 
>> this same look,
>> is why some collectors DON'T like to use WD40.
>>
>> That said, I would never use WD40 on a "severe ruster". There are  much 
>> better products
>> (many have already been named on this listing) for retarding rust.  But, 
>> NEVER apply any
>> of these products (in my opinion) to a specimen (especially a  'severe 
>> ruster') until you:
>> 1. remove as much of the alkalis and/or salts as is possible from 
>> specimen
>> 2. remove as much ferric oxide as is possible, or convert as much  ferric 
>> oxide to
>> ferrous oxide (via chemical or electrico-chemical treatment) as is 
>> possible
>> 3. apply either a chemical or an electrico-chemical treatment  process to 
>> stabilize
>> other minerals/metals (when necessary).
>> 4. remove as much (better yet, all) moisture as is possible from 
>> specimen.
>>
>> ONLY THEN should you apply your rust prevention product of choice. 
>> Remember,
>> these specimens are rusting for a reason. Most severe rusters have  come 
>> from
>> severe (sometimes anaerobic) environments. You must remove all the  above 
>> rust
>> 'contributing causes' prior to sealing any of these types of  specimen 
>> (my opinion).
>>
>> Skipping any of the above steps, and applying a rust preventative,  will 
>> surely "lock in"
>> these potential 'rust mechanisms' within your specimen, which in  fact, 
>> will create a
>> more corrosive condition, and hasten the demise of your specimens.
>>
>> One last note...
>> I continue to waiver on this one...
>> Whether it is nobler to preserve the original specimen's "as is" 
>> qualities,
>> or is it nobler still, to preserve the specimen from deteriorating  away,
>> thus altering forever, the "as is" quality. Alas, there is the  rub.....
>>
>> Just my opinions... Best of Luck  ;>}
>> Jonathan Dongell
>> IMCA 3922
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Majden" <epmajden at shaw.ca>
>> To: <meteorite-list at meteoritecentral.com>
>> Sent: Monday, December 06, 2010 9:28 AM
>> Subject: [meteorite-list] List of known Rusters?
>>
>>
>>> Does anyone have a list of known Iron meteorite rusters?  The  sample 
>>> of Nantan China I have split into several pieces.  I have  been using 
>>> WD40 on the pieces to retard further problems but this  does not work 
>>> all that well.  Have to repeat this every few weeks!
>>> Ed Majden
>>> Courtenay B.C.
>>>
>>> Asteroid Majden  142368   (Thanks to Rob Matson)
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>