[meteorite-list] List of known Rusters?

Jonathan E. Dongell jdongell at cox.net
Wed Dec 8 01:59:21 EST 2010


Ed,
I will sometimes use WD40 on previously treated/preserved irons, as a 
twice-a-year
cleaner/sealer as a "rub-down" with a clean towel. But, I always heat my 
specimens
to ~ 400 F for ~ 20 minutes, prior to every application (let them cool 
first... ouch...).
I have noticed two things when using WD40 on my specimens:
1. it appears to be, at best, only a temporary rust retardant.
2. it does not behave as a 100% water-repellant oil-based product does; in 
fact,
it can (in my opinion) emulsify with water/moisture in the specimen, due to 
the aliphatic
component and/or the wetting agent used in WD40.

The later # 2, is why I always insist on heating specimens that receive 
WD40. You must
remove any moisture from within your specimen, or you will risk continued 
degradation
of your specimen BENEATH THE SURFACE over time (in my opinion).

The only other reason I might use WD40 is a personal preference. It gives 
certain irons
a slightly darker, almost black-iron oxide or 'fusion-crust' tone or 
coloration (instead of
a shiny, or a gun metal blue, or etc...) with continued usage. However, this 
same look,
is why some collectors DON'T like to use WD40.

That said, I would never use WD40 on a "severe ruster". There are much 
better products
(many have already been named on this listing) for retarding rust. But, 
NEVER apply any
of these products (in my opinion) to a specimen (especially a 'severe 
ruster') until you:
1. remove as much of the alkalis and/or salts as is possible from specimen
2. remove as much ferric oxide as is possible, or convert as much ferric 
oxide to
ferrous oxide (via chemical or electrico-chemical treatment) as is possible
3. apply either a chemical or an electrico-chemical treatment process to 
stabilize
other minerals/metals (when necessary).
4. remove as much (better yet, all) moisture as is possible from specimen.

ONLY THEN should you apply your rust prevention product of choice. Remember,
these specimens are rusting for a reason. Most severe rusters have come from
severe (sometimes anaerobic) environments. You must remove all the above 
rust
'contributing causes' prior to sealing any of these types of specimen (my 
opinion).

Skipping any of the above steps, and applying a rust preventative, will 
surely "lock in"
these potential 'rust mechanisms' within your specimen, which in fact, will 
create a
more corrosive condition, and hasten the demise of your specimens.

One last note...
I continue to waiver on this one...
Whether it is nobler to preserve the original specimen's "as is" qualities,
or is it nobler still, to preserve the specimen from deteriorating away,
thus altering forever, the "as is" quality. Alas, there is the rub.....

Just my opinions... Best of Luck  ;>}
Jonathan Dongell
IMCA 3922



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed Majden" <epmajden at shaw.ca>
To: <meteorite-list at meteoritecentral.com>
Sent: Monday, December 06, 2010 9:28 AM
Subject: [meteorite-list] List of known Rusters?


> Does anyone have a list of known Iron meteorite rusters?  The sample  of 
> Nantan China I have split into several pieces.  I have been using  WD40 on 
> the pieces to retard further problems but this does not work  all that 
> well.  Have to repeat this every few weeks!
> Ed Majden
> Courtenay B.C.
>
> Asteroid Majden  142368   (Thanks to Rob Matson)
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