[meteorite-list] Old rusty iron (off topic, sort of)

R. N. Hartman rhartman04 at earthlink.net
Tue Feb 21 13:23:28 EST 2006


Goran wrote:  <<And I still think that ferric chloride for etching is bad>>
In the first place, the ferric chloride is in proximity to the meteorite for
only a few seconds, at most, in the proper solution, not as a dry crystal,
and if you follow the directions given previously (over the years) you will
have no trouble.The etch is much better.  We have used this for many years
now and it is a much better way than nitric acid when applied correctly.
This has been verified by countless others who now use ferric to etch and
its validity is well documented.  No, we are not going to explain this
again.  Go to our archived article in Meteorite Times that explains this.

Ron Hartman

----- Original Message -----
From: "Göran Axelsson" <axelsson at acc.umu.se>
To: "meteorite-list" <meteorite-list at meteoritecentral.com>
Sent: Monday, February 20, 2006 3:34 PM
Subject: [meteorite-list] Old rusty iron (off topic, sort of)


> Hi,
>
> Just wanted to show this that I got today on another mailinglist. It's a
> picture of a few viking age iron objects recovered this summer. It is
> really rusted and what do they do to conserve it?
> Yes, distilled water to leach the chloride out of the objects.
>
> Water by itself is not a danger to iron, it is what's in the water that
> is the danger.
>
>
http://saltosobrius.blogspot.com/2006/02/viking-period-horse-gear-revealed.h
tml
>
> And I still think that ferric chloride for etching is bad. Do a test
> with a dry grain of ferric chloride salt, put it on a paper and leave it
> for a while. When you check it in a couple of weeks it's all dissolved
> into a yellow spot and absorbed into the paper. Unless you live in a
> very dry place.
>
> At least prime the iron by wetting it in pure water or alcohole so the
> solution isn't drawn into small fractures by capillary force.
>
> /Göran
>
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